Are you falling for these retinoid myths or can you tell fact from fiction?
“You can’t use retinoids during the day! Are you crazy?! You’re gonna get wrinkles!”
“Of course you can use them during the day. Just pile on your sunscreen.”
“You don’t need to exfoliate if you use retinoids. They do that for you.”
“Since when do retinoids exfoliate skin? Nonsense!”
“I’d never use retinoids. They thin skin, you know.”
“I thought retinoids made skin thicker?…”
Argh. Retinoids are the gold standards of anti-aging. They kick wrinkles in the butt, fade your dark spots away and even rid you of acne! You can’t do without them. But doing with them ain’t easy either. With so many myths and misconceptions around retinoids, it’s hard to know what to believe and how to use them right so you can minimise wrinkles without the irritation.
Fret not. I’ve done the research and debunked the craziest, most common retinoid myths for you. Let’s debunk them!
- Myth #1. Retinoic Acid, Retinol, Retinaldehyde, And Other “Retin” Ingredients Are All The Same Thing
- Myth #2. You Can’t Use Retinoids During The Day
- Myth #3. Retinoids Exfoliate Skin
- Myth #4. Retinoids Thin The Skin
- Myth #5. You Shouldn’t Use Retinoids Around Your Eyes
- Myth #6. Retinoids Work Immediately
- Myth #7. You Can’t Apply Retinoids To Wet Skin
- Myth #8: Once Skin Gets Used To Retinoids, They Stop Working
- What Are The Best Retinoid Products?
- The Bottom Line
Myth #1. Retinoic Acid, Retinol, Retinaldehyde, And Other “Retin” Ingredients Are All The Same Thing
Ingredients that have “retin” in the name have one thing in common: they’re all forms of Vitamin A (also known as retinoids). This means they all have the same anti-aging, anti-acne, and lightening properties – BUT not the same potency.
Retinoid acid is the pure form of vitamin A. It’s the most powerful (and most irritating). That’s why you’ll find it only in prescription products, like Retin A. All other OTC forms of retinoids (think retinol, retinaldehyde or retinyl palmitate) must be converted to retinoid acid to work their magic. The more steps this conversion takes, the weaker vitamin A is:
Retinyl palmitate > Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Retinoic acid
In other words, the further away a form is from retionoic acid, the less effective but more gentler it is. That’s why retinyl palmitate is recommended only to super sensitive skin that can’t tolerate any other form of vitamin A. It’ll take longer to see results but your skin won’t be irritated all the time.
Related: What’s The Best Form Of Vitamin A For YOU?
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Myth #2. You Can’t Use Retinoids During The Day
I’m the first to recommend you use retinoids at night, but it’s not for the reason you think. Rumour has it, retinoids make skin more prone to sun damage – but that’s just a myth. Dana Sachs, an associate professor of dermatology at the University of Michigan Medical School, explains:
“This misconception came about because in some early studies, people described putting on a retinoid, walking into the sun, and immediately burning. But that redness is likely related to heat exposure. Clinical studies have shown pretty definitively that retinoids do not lower the MED — or minimal erythemal dos — of human skin, which is the amount of UV light you can take before the skin burns.” Phew!
So why shouldn’t you use retinoids during the day? Sunlight degrades retinoids, making them less effective. This is also why retinoids should always come in opaque bottles. UV rays can get through glass bottles, making retinol ineffective by the time you take them home and use them.
Myth #3. Retinoids Exfoliate Skin
Retinol exfoliate skin without exfoliating skin. Let me explain. Exfoliation is a process that removes dead cells from the surface of your skin. Manual exfoliation, like scrubs, manually dislodge dead cells and remove them from your face. Chemical exfoliation, like glycolic or salicylic acid, dissolve the “glue” that holds skin cells together, so they can slough off on their own.
Retinoids don’t do any of these, so they don’t exfoliate skin. So, how did this myth originate? Your skin exfoliates itself on its own, but as you get older, it takes more and more time to do so. Retinoids speed up cellular turnover, the skin’s natural exfoliation process, so that skin exfoliates itself faster. But that’s not exfoliating skin.
Another red herring? The redness and flaking retinoids cause when you first start using them. The flakiness can easily be mistake for exfoliation. But it’s not. It’s irritation. Dr Dana Sachs, M.D says: “There’s often peeling and redness, but that’s a side effect of the irritation, not a true and even exfoliation like the one you get from an ingredient like glycolic acid.” If you’re experiencing it, cut back to two or three times a week and moisturise well afterwards.
Related: Physical VS Chemical Exfoliation: Which One Is Better?
Myth #4. Retinoids Thin The Skin
If retinoids exfoliated skin, this myth may have some truth in it. After all, exfoliation does remove the superficial (dead) layers of skin, so that things it. But you know now retinoids don’t exfoliate skin.
In fact, the opposite is true. Retinoids make skin THICKER and firmer over time. How is this possible? Studies show that retinoids boost collagen production. Collagen is the protein that keeps skin firm. The more collagen your skin has, the thicker it gets – and the smaller your wrinkles become.
Related: 8 Science-Backed Ways To Rebuild Lost Collagen
Myth #5. You Shouldn’t Use Retinoids Around Your Eyes
Not only you should. You MUST! It’s true the skin around the eyes is super delicate. But that’s why it get damaged more easily. If you want to keep those crow’s feet away, you do need retinoids’ help. Board-certified dermatologist Jonathan Weiss, M.D says: “Studies have shown that people who apply retinoids right up to the eyes get the best results.” If your undereye area gets all flaked and irritated, then use a lower concentration of retinoids or cut back to once or twice a week.
Myth #6. Retinoids Work Immediately
I wish! Retinoids are anti-ageing superstars but they take their sweet time to work. We’re talking months here. If you’ve been using retinol for a couple of weeks and see no improvement, it’s because it’s too early. You need to stick with them for at least 12 weeks to see noticeable results. If you’re using a lower dose, it’ll take longer.
Board-certified dermatologist Adam Friedman, MD, explains: “Given [that] retinol works by literally augmenting the biology of the skin, it takes real-time. Most studies use 12 weeks as a cutoff to seeing any significant changes—as do I.”
Don’t get discouraged. And don’t be tempted to increase dose quickly. The higher dose, the higher the irritation. It’s best to start with a lower dose for six months to a year and upgrade slowly, then start with a higher dose, irritate your skin so bad, and then having to cut back and start the process all over again.
Myth #7. You Can’t Apply Retinoids To Wet Skin
Do you ever bother to read the instructions on the box? If you do, you’ll know they usually say you need to wait until your skin is completely dry before applying retinoids. I do. But if you’re the impatient type, you can go ahead and apply them on wet skin. Nothing bad will happen.
Dr Sachs explains: “I know the instructions on the box often recommend waiting until your face is completely dry before applying a retinoid. But there’s no evidence in the scientific literature I’ve seen that shows damp or wet skin exacerbates sensitivity.”
Myth #8: Once Skin Gets Used To Retinoids, They Stop Working
Let me guess. You’ve started using retinol and, after the initial irritation was over, your skin was smoother. Your wrinkles looked smaller. Your skin got better. And then… everything stopped. You’re still using retinol, but you don’t see much of an improvement anymore. It must have stopped working, right?
Nope. Myth has it, once your skin gets used to retinoids, they stop working and you don’t see results anymore. In reality, you stop seeing results when your skin has reached its ideal state. Once you hit that, retinoids maintain the status quo. But as you keep expecting better and better results, that’s not enough for you and you think they’re not working anymore.
When you hit this plateau, you can either rejoice in how good your skin is and keep the status quo. Or, if you want your skin to improve further, upgrade to a higher concentration of retinoids. You could always go prescription and use Tretinoin (the most powerful form of retinoids) if your dermatologist thinks you’re a good fit for it.
What Are The Best Retinoid Products?
- MaeLove Moonlight Retinal Super Serum ($39.95): This retinaldehyde serum has a niacinamide + ceramide base to counteract the potential dryness and irritation from retinaldehyde. It also has fragrant oils that could irritate sensitive skin. But if your skin doesn’t react badly to them, it’s an effective and affordable option to consider. Available at MaeLove.
- Medik8 r-Retinoate Ultimate Night Serum ($272.00): Yes, this is outrageously expensive – but truly one of the best retinoid serums you’ll ever come across. It contains two forms of Vitamin A (retinaldehyde and Retinyl Retinoate) to fight wrinkles and signs of aging. Plus, it’s moisturising. Available at Dermstore.
- Murad Retinal ReSculpt Overnight Treatment ($105.00): This retinaldehyde serum is enriched with moisturising shea butter and soothing ingredients to treat the signs of aging while keeping skin soft and irritation-free. Available at Look Fantastic, Sephora, SpaceNK and Ulta.
- Paula’s Choice Resist Wrinkle Repair Retinol Serum ($42.00): An anti-aging serum with 0.1% retinol. It also includes antioxidants, like Vitamin E, to prevent premature aging, and soothing ingredients to reduce irritations. Available at Paula’s Choice and Sephora.
- Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Booster ($52.00): This high-strength 1% retinol booster has a moisturising base and plenty of skin-soothers to counteract the irritating effects of retinol. Use it on its own for maximum effect or dilute it with moisturiser if it’s too harsh for you. Available at Cult Beauty, Net-A-Porter, Paula’s Choice and SpaceNK.
- Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM ($65.00): A micro encapsulated 1.5% retinol serum in an oily, moisturising base to fight wrinkles and fade away dark spots. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, and Peter Thomas Roth.
The Bottom Line
There you have it, the most common retinoids myths debunked. Now you know how to make the most of these anti-aging superstars without irritating your skin or using them the wrong way.
Gah, I wish I could find a proper retionid around here – when I go to the derm’s or to a pharmacy, they look at me and have no idea what I’m talking about 😐 .
And after a lifetime of oily skin, all the wrinkles have appeared in just a few months, bah!
Ana, oh dear, not even derms?! What are they recommending to their patients?! Order some Paula’s Choice’s serums online. I believe they ship worldwide, and they’re really good. 🙂
Retinoids with vitamin C – yes or no?
Laura, yes. Studies have shown this combination works: http://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/17/2/2219
I wonder what your thoughts are on Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Serum? I am 61 and dont really have wrinkles, but bought the Neutrogena one to start with something, as I have some lines starting to show slightly on one corner of my mouth and outer edge of one eye, so thought this may help. I imagine Neutrogena would be a weaker version than Paula’s Choice. I have sometimes used moisturizers with Vitamin A in them, as well as rosehip oil. Thanks for another great article!
Vivella, I so envy you for not having wrinkles! I’m in my early 30s, and some have already started to appear around the corners of my eyes.
The Neutrogena serum is good. I wish it contained more antioxidants, but it has enough retinol to work. As a first treatment, it’ll do nicely.
You’re welcome. Glad you enjoyed it.
Very informative post, thanks.
Retinoids with Glycolic Acid – yes or no?
Lidia, it’s not ideal, but can be done. I don’t like it though. Both ingredients are pretty powerful, and when used together, may irritate skin, especially if it is sensitive. That’s why I use glycolic in the morning and retinol at night, just to be on the safe side.
That’s exactly what I do, I use glycolic acid (as a serum of Dr. Murad) in the morning and retinol at night 🙂
What about salicylic acid in the morning (of course with an SPF lotion on top) and retinol at night?
Lidia, that works fine too. It just depends on your skin type. Salicylic acid is best for oily skin, as it helps reduce excess oil and prevent/treat breakouts. Glycolic acid is better for dry and sun-damaged skin because it’s hydrating and can boost collagen production.
Thanks Gio 🙂
My pleasure! 🙂
I use a Vitamin A cream, but think I need to add a serum. Great info❤?Thank you!
VJ, you’re welcome. Oh yes, use a serum. They work much faster than moisturizers.
I mostly agree.In the end, retinol may thicken out the skin,but at least for the first couple weeks- months it thins the skin,so technically it’s true it thins it out. ‘Till your skin thickens out that’s one reason dermatologists tell teens like me to wear sunscreen when you’re on retinol, ’cause skin is temporarily compromised from being thinned,other than that retinol degrades in sunlight.
H, that’s so true. But I think it’s a small price to pay, as the benefits are so great,
Great post! Some estheticians say retinoids do thin the skin eventually especially if you have fair, sensitive skin. My face was originally plump and oily but became dry/dehydrated/tight and looked thinner and ashy after a couple years on a retinoid. At first it gave me great results. Maybe certain skin types shouldn’t use the “big guns” too often.
Cagirl, that’s strange. Retinoids thin the skin at the beginning, but they boost the production of collagen and that makes skin thicker in the long run.
Did something else in your skin or lifestyle change? For example, when I moved to London, the cold weather caused havoc on my skin. It made it really dry. I was using 0.5 retinol almost every day in Italy and it worked well but in London, I had to switch back to a lower dose and use it less frequently until I found a skincare regime that keeps my skin well-hydrated in this climate too. Now I can use a higher dose again. Maybe something similar is happening to you?
It is strange but my experience. Yeah, climate could be a contributor. Last winter my skin became super dry & is still like that. My skin barrier is all messed up. And I think the air is also kind of dry here but not extremely dry.
Any recommendations on a good moisturizer? haha My Cerave lotion doesn’t work anymore. Nothing seems to work. And sunscreen… Was considering trying the Sunumbra you posted about. I’ve never found a sunscreen that felt good & now they’re all too drying now because of the dry skin. The sunscreen was the hassle with the retin a. lol I wore it, but it always felt gross.
My face looked amazing the first few months on retin-a but then my face suddenly got inflamed looking and older looking. So I cut back a lot, but a few months ago I stopped using it completely. My face looked better before I ever used it and just used cheap sulfur for my acne. I mean at least I had a face that looked healthy and alive….smooth skin, plump face and didn’t need to slather on moisturizer all the time.
I feel your pain! When I moved to London last year, the harsh winter here messed up my skin barrier and dried up my skin too. Everything suddenly stopped working and it took me months to figure out how to fix it.
One of the things that helped me the most was a serum with hyaluronic acid, which is super hydrating. I used Bakel Jualuronic and Skinceuticals Hydra B5 but there are plenty of cheaper options around. I used one both in the morning and at night and then followed up with one of Paula’s Choice moisturizers for dry skin. Using a facial oil at night helped to lock in moisture too. I prefer products like Beauti Skincare Beauty Sleep Elixir because it contains several types of oils. But you can also use one oil, such as argan or evening primrose. Just experiment to find out what your skin likes best.
Hope this helps.
I love your articles but you aren’t correct about retinaldehyde. Retinol takes 2 conversions to become retinoic acid which is retin A. Retinaldehyde takes only 1 conversion to become retinoic acid. Only retinaldehyde has tested in a peer reviewed journal, double dummy as equally effective as retin a. Retinol has tested inferior to retin a. In a peer reviewed review article, it states that retinol is 1/20th the efficacy of retin a. I can refer you to the review study if you wish.
Lesley, thank you for your comment. Yes, I would love to see the study, thank you. I will do some more research and update this article accordingly.
I’ve been using 1% retinol for just over 4 months. I didn’t experience the flakiness or irritation when I started using it – about 3 times a week. I went up to every day after about a month. And only in the past month or so, when I apply my moisturizer at night and moisturizer and sunscreen in the morning, my skin burns. It doesn’t get that red – a bit, but it’s like I’ve applied hot sun to it. It goes away after about 5 minutes. I’m assuming it’s the retinol so do you suggest I go back to using it less? I also use SkinCeuticals Vitamin C + E serum and PC’s 2% BHA in the morning. Thanks!
Lynn, yes. If you experience any side effects, it’s always best to cut back.
Hi Gio !
Your articles about retinoids make me want to try them again. I tried The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% in squalane, but I couldn’t stand more than one drop with a lot of moisturizer and I wasn’t very consistent, I used only it once a week or once every 2 weeks, and the PAO is just 3 months. In the end, I used only a very tiny little bit of the bottle and thought it was a waste, so I gave up… But I’m thinking about trying the Mad Hippy serum, it looks it would suit better my sensitive dry skin.
Also, I now realize the importance of antioxydants, I think my skin doesn’t like vitamine C but your article about Niod Survival make me want to try it.
PS : your blog is fantastic !